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Head Gasket install
The most important hole in the head gasket is the OIL hole! It is a small hole in the front of the gasket that MUST be placed over the small hole in the top of the block near the front of the block! If you look at the front of the block you will see a thin line going from the oil pump to the top of the block. That is the oil passage to the head. Now look at the bottom of the head, you will see the small hole that is the oil passage to the cam and the rest of the head. Now locate the same hole in the gasket and line them up before you install the gasket over the guide pins in the block. Now install the head and torque it in a cross hatch pattern from the center out at 52 ft lbs. Repeat 2 more times, and at 500 miles. Then as per the FSM.
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R & R Head
Loosen all the rocker arm valve lash adjustment nuts and back the bolts all the way out with a screw driver, until the under side is flush with the bottom of the rocker arm. On a head with a stock cam (not billet) they are hollow, so you can place a large Phillips screw driver in the hole in the side of the cam, just ahead of number one exhaust rocker arm. Then use a socket wrench to remove the cam gear. (you can use this same method to torque the cam bolt). Now remove the dust plate behind the cam sprocket.
To remove the rocker arm shaft screws. Use the Phillips head attachment provided with an impact screw driver. Place the Phillips head in a vice grip pliers and lock them down tight. (an impact screw driver will try to turn when you hit it, more than you want it too) Now place the Phillips head in the screw and tap down with a hammer a few times, then try to turn the screw when your not hitting on it. It should bust loose with no damage to the screw. If the screw has damage, you can use a square "E-Z Out" to remove the screw.
Next tap the rocker arms out with a rod as long as the shaft and smaller around than the shaft so no damage will occur to either the head or shaft. (if the shafts are coated with gunk, soak them first with WD-40 or penetrating oil) Remove rocker arms and springs. Then clean and inspect for damage.
To install the rocker arms and shafts, place the rods next to the side of the top of the head and let them rest on the valve springs. Rotate the shafts and make sure the holes in them line up with the holes on top of the head, and the smaller holes line up with where a rocker arm would ride on the shaft. (if they don't no oil will get to the rocker arm) Next pour oil or assembly oil in the holes on top of the head, it should run down into the area the cam rides on (note there are no cam bearings). Now slide the cam in from the back of the head. Then slide rocker arm shafts in the holes and make sure the large holes aim up. As you slide them in you can install the rocker arms and springs, one at a time.
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Installing the screws in the top of the head.
Use a large Phillips screw driver to start all of them before you tighten any of them down. Then use the impact screw driver and tap them down tight. (Never use Lock-tight) !!! If anything gets down in the oil passages the rocker arms and head will suffer damage! After you have all the screws tightened down, use a punch and "set" the screw in the head, to keep them from backing out.
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Valve Lash
Once again the FSM causes many guys (even your local Suzuki tech) to believe they have the distributor in correct. When in fact more than 50% of the time they are 180 off! Below are 2 drawings of where the distributor should be aiming and what valves should be set to the correct valve lash for your cam (some cams require different lash)
Set valve lash on intake valves #3 & # 4. and valve lash on exhaust #2 & #4. (red dots) Notice the rotor should be aiming at #4 spark plug on the distributor, and both timing marks on the timing pulleys should aim at up at the timing marks.
I suggest adjusting these valves first.
(*see why, below)
Set valve lash on intake valves #1 & # 2. and valve lash on exhaust #1 & #3. (red dots) Notice the rotor should be aiming at #1 spark plug on the distributor, and both timing marks on the timing pulleys should aim at each other. I adjust these valves last.
*(why) Now all you need to do is turn the crank 1/4 turn clockwise to cause the number 4 intake rocker arm to push down & (open) number 4 intake valve......this will allow just enough room to install the valve cover without moving the distributor.
Distributor Oil Leak
The leading cause for an oil leak around the back of the head is from the distributor O-ring. Rotate the engine to the timing mark with the rotor aiming at number one plug wire. Remove the distributor and the distributor housing, then remove the old O-ring. Clean the housing and back of the head with carb cleaner. Now put a thin (1/4") layer of RTV on the housing and let dry for a few minuets. Then bolt the housing (with the distributor out of it) back on the block. Now install the distributor, and check timing with a timing light.
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Engine Breaking in Period
(First 500 miles)
Run engine @ between 1,500 and 2,000 rpm’s for 15 to 20 min. to break in cam. Run engine up to 50 mph in 3rd gear, then back off to 30 mph. (repeat several times). You should notice your new engine getting more power in the higher gears, as the rings seat in. (in some cases, they may take up to 4,000 miles to fully seat in, for max hp). Do not drive at a constant speed, variable speed is best. Watch for oil leaks and water leaks. Always check oil, (usually with each gas fill-up) and water temp. Don't let it run hot, or low on oil. Do not use High Octane gas
(After 500 miles)
At 500 miles change the oil and filter, adjust valves, re-torque the head to 52 ft lbs in a cross hatch pattern starting from the center. Repeat torque pattern at least tow more times. Depending on driving conditions, repeat every 2000 miles (except re-torque head). Adjust valve lash every 6000 miles.
1.6 eight valve wiring 1989-90
1.6 eight valve wiring 1991-95
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